But now that we have been visitors, it is great to now learn the history of not just Shiwa Ng'andu, but Northern Rhodesia (present day Zambia.) I realize that many of the frustrations we encounter today were magnified same back. At least today we have internet and phones to keep us connected to the outside world, and many native Zambians are educated and no longer simply subsisting on the land.
Showing posts with label Shiwa Ng'andu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Shiwa Ng'andu. Show all posts
Monday, September 30, 2013
The Africa House
I am currently reading a good book that Mike Dobbins loaned. If you would like to have a terrific story, based on good, solid research, dive into The Africa House by Christina Lamb.
I am glad I didn't read it prior to our Kapishya Springs visit. For myself, it would have felt too much like I was peering into the personal stories of the Harvey family. It was more enjoyable to listen to Mark Harvey's stories and philosophy without having the "background."
But now that we have been visitors, it is great to now learn the history of not just Shiwa Ng'andu, but Northern Rhodesia (present day Zambia.) I realize that many of the frustrations we encounter today were magnified same back. At least today we have internet and phones to keep us connected to the outside world, and many native Zambians are educated and no longer simply subsisting on the land.
But now that we have been visitors, it is great to now learn the history of not just Shiwa Ng'andu, but Northern Rhodesia (present day Zambia.) I realize that many of the frustrations we encounter today were magnified same back. At least today we have internet and phones to keep us connected to the outside world, and many native Zambians are educated and no longer simply subsisting on the land.
Saturday, July 6, 2013
Shiwa Ng'andu Manor House Tour
Monday morning we toured the Shiwa Ng'andu manor house, then drove through their private game preserve. The book "The Africa House" by Christina Lamb has a good historical background for more information. The house fell into disrepair, but Charlie Harvey (Mark's brother) has been restoring it, and that is not a simple task out this far from everything.
This is at the "clock" tower, and serves as the entry into the estate. These signs are quite old, and where we thought there would be a person to screen entry, there were simply deserted rooms.
Beyond the clock tower was a lane leading up to the house. It was lined with enormous eucalyptus trees and agave plants. Lady Gore-Browne had them planted to produce essential oils.
Looking back toward the clock tower, from the estate side.
This archway and stairs help form what must have, at one time, been an impressive avenue leading to the manor house.
The metal sculptures, both here (lion and rhino) and grazing animals at the Hot Springs, were quite impressive.
Looking at the manor house. All the bricks were formed and fired using local materials. I believe Tom told me at the end they had created well over 12,000,000 bricks!
Sir Stewart Gore-Browne was retired from the British Army, having been posted in colonial India, and also fighting in the First World War. He was nicknamed black rhinoceros by the local Bemba, according to our guide, because of his short, rotund stature and quick, razor sharp temper.
And when the manor was completed, 1932. Building on the estate continued well into the 1940s.
Sir Gore-Browne traveled extensively, and from one such trip brought back this hand carved Chinese chest. It is kept in a darkened place, and the beautiful detail was not revealed until Tom took this photo.
Some of the many more leather travel cases used by the family in their travels.
Looking out from the front balcony area from the library. The dog in the foreground is a Rhodesian Ridgeback, such huge and friendly animals.
One of many, many fireplaces used to keep the home warm during the dry season.
Another set of treasures, ancient artifacts collected from Africa and China. Some dated back to well over 1000 years old.
The manor house also offers 4 suites that can be rented out. This was one of the larger ones, with it's own bathroom. The bathroom was huge, including a "couch", I suppose so the person taking a bath wouldn't be lonely. The furniture was all original, and most of the pieces were actually built in the house in each room, and will never be able to be removed unless destroyed. The joke about a man building a boat in the basement flashed through my mind when the guide relating this fact.
The downstairs parlor, directly below the library.
Outside, this is the rhino sculpture.
And not to be left out, this mama goat made certain we took her picture, then shooed us off the lawn.
I think she was more the guard animal than the dogs.
Looking back down the archway. You can imagine how lush this is during the wetter time of the year, and how impressive it was before the inevitable African decay begins to retake and reclaim ground.
Next stop that morning was the boat house, lake and drive through their private game reserve.
Shiwa Ng'andu Game Drive
Following this map from the manor, we managed to get on the correct road to drive out to the family boat house on Shiwa Ng'andu (the lake) and game drive. And fortunately for us, Charlie Harvey was behind us on the road when we almost took a wrong turn.
At the lake:
After leaving the boat house we drove parallel to the lake, and stopped to investigate this group of wildebeest.
As we approached them from behind a grove of trees this group of zebra surprised us (and we them)
And here is the group of wildebeests coming along the lake to the side of the grove where the zebra are.
The "leader" of the zebra kept his eye on us the entire time.
These animals are well adapted to blend in, but Mary's sharp eye was able to locate what we heard.
On the opposite side, way out in the field was another animal. Tom let me get out, and creep closer, trying to get a better photo. These were two lechwe, male and female. The male kept his eye on me. I went as close as I felt comfortable ... and went away with a few battle scars ... long sharp grass, with seeds intent on penetrating skin, clothes and leather boots. They made foxtails appear domesticated.
Tom captured a much better picture, which you will see in a bit.
These next three were attempts at taking photos of more skittish animals, and try as we might, could not determine is we caught them or not. Can you see anything? They are there, but blend in extremely well.

We heard movement, but have absolutely no idea what it was, or even if they were captured in the photo.
Another grazing pair:
And then this group of puku ahead of us on the road.
They didn't stand around waiting for us. The animals in the beginning photos, across the lake were likely puku and lechwe. Look closely at these photos, and note the black stripes on the rump .. typical of impala.
Here is Tom's great photo of a lechwe. They have wide spreading horns.
And as they were entering this small tree grouping this animal popped out the other side. A nice close shot of a puku.
This boar was attempting to push his way into the pen where a sow was busy with her little nurslings. Quite honestly, we would have felt much more threatened confronting this huge guy in the bush than the animals we did see. What an amazing, completely unexpected treat this morning had been!
At the lake:
After leaving the boat house we drove parallel to the lake, and stopped to investigate this group of wildebeest.
We kept walking closer, slowly, of course, but got quite close until the leader of the group snorted and they trotted away.
Back in the our Patrol, after walking back, we drove and stopped when we spied this new animal on an island in the lake.
Something caught our eyes on the left side, in the trees.
These animals are well adapted to blend in, but Mary's sharp eye was able to locate what we heard.
We heard movement, but have absolutely no idea what it was, or even if they were captured in the photo.
Another grazing pair:
And then this group of puku ahead of us on the road.
Here is Tom's great photo of a lechwe. They have wide spreading horns.
In the profile of the one I photographed you can see how long the horns are. Same type of animal, they have very distinctive black markings on their front legs.
Another group of wildebeest, much closer to the road:
On the road back to Kapishya, through the farm, Mary took these. The Estate does offer horseback riding, but only for experienced riders.
This boar was attempting to push his way into the pen where a sow was busy with her little nurslings. Quite honestly, we would have felt much more threatened confronting this huge guy in the bush than the animals we did see. What an amazing, completely unexpected treat this morning had been!
Part 5 will be the afternoon of this day, captured as the camera battery gave out. Our next planned purchase in the States will be an extra battery.
Labels:
boat house,
game drive,
impala,
lake,
lechwe,
puku,
Shiwa Ng'andu,
wildebeest,
zebra
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